Back in 1945 the cobblestone
streets of Buñol were exposed to hundreds of civilians in the hope of
witnessing the Gigantes y Cabezudos-“Giants and Big Heads parade.”
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Gigantes y Cabezudos is part tradition, making appearances at many Spanish
festivals usually depicting archetype of the current town. There are so many
rumours as to what happened that afternoon; the prominent one ignites from a group
of young local males, who despised their lack of attention, grabbed tomatoes
from a nearby vegetable stand and began to randomly pelt them at unsuspecting
residents. The police immediately held those responsible, and made them clean
and pay for the damages. The following year the same individuals turned up-with
their own tomatoes and once again pelted them at more unsuspecting people. In
the end it came apparent, and more and more people were prepared and infact
goaded it themselves. From then on, the “event” was labelled as La Tomatina,
and the annual tradition began. On two
occasions La Tomatina was banned, intervened by Franco-due to the lack of a
religious significance. A protest against Franco was staged, representing a
funeral; inside a coffin lay a giant tomato, many intentional faces mourned the
passing coffin. It worked! The event became official with rules and regulations
that have entertained millions of people since the 1970’s. (I will go into the
rules and regulations a bit later on.)
The festival, which
has adapted around La Tomatina, is a weeklong experience and what normally
holds 9,000 residents increases to the now maximum 20,000.
The night before La Tomatina the residents of Buñol come to the streets, in which they can compete in a paella cooking contest; made from rice, chicken, duck beans, artichokes, garlic olives and, of course, tomatoes. The festival is subjected to: parades, music, dancing, fireworks, competitions and activities for young kids.
As the Tomatina fight approaches, the town’s medieval bell
tower is filled with tomatoes in advance. In preparation shop keepers and
owners of any other businesses in or around the main square cover their windows
and doors.
Tourists have known to travel from hundred-some thousands-of
miles away to experience the biggest food fight of the year. It is advisable to
set your alarms as early as possible in order to guarantee a place on the
7:00am train from Valencia to Buñol. Tickets cannot be booked in advance.
It has being reported that up to as many as 50,000 people have lined the cobblestone streets of Plaza del Pueblo to take part. However, due to the number increasing per year, for health and safety purposes the amount has being restricted to 20,000 lucky participants and a ticket price of €10. This, however, as not weakened people’s attempts.
Tourists and residents align the streets from 8 am. Spanish
tunes blast from speakers and there are stalls in which to buy safety goggles
and gloves, to protect oneself from acidity in the tomatoes. There are also
stalls that sell plastic cups of Sangria to hearten the atmosphere.
Before they can enter the main square however, volunteers, mostly men, although women do and can join in, test their strength in Pablo Jabon. Pablo Jabon is a tall pole that gets covered in grease from top to bottom. A joint of ham gets placed right at the top. The goal is to climb the pole and knock the ham off. During this time everyone is singing and in high spirits, egging on those who are climbing the pole. Hose pipes are then used to spray everyone. Once the ham as being knocked off, a loud gunshot is fired into the air; this represents the beginning of La Tomatina.
Newcomers often get nervous just before the beginning, and women do get warned of the high chance of being molested as tops are ripped off. It is advisable to wear a bikini top underneath to avoid bare breasts. It is reported men can only wear shorts and women have to wear shorts and a top, this is to recognise different sexes in the suffocating crowd.
Once the gunshot is fired the river of human bodies; swaying
involuntarily in virginal white clothing watch anxiously, as the trucks begin
to head towards them. Those who are watching from a height no doubt question
the possibility of a truck, well five trucks in total, manoeuvring through the
flow; it doesn’t seem feasible, however the drivers co-ordinations through the
melee result in those being pressed against the wall. Still the choreography is
mutual, hands held in the air and screaming in delight as the 1st
truck pauses, and jacks up its rear, spilling out of all of its squishy tomatoes;
150,000 tomatoes in total are released. Soon as the tomatoes hit the floor
everyone is in such a hurry to collect what they can into their hands to throw
randomly…a few moments later another truck comes into view. The second truck
drops tonnes more. People are throwing quicker than they can think. The crimson stained clothing now camouflaged
in the pulp. Streams of fruit flesh,
tougher than the individuals, begin to flood the streets, knocking most people
down. The accumulative force of thousands of bodies some are quickly siphoned
down a side street and away from the action. The battle to remain in the square
is getting harder and harder to achieve. Clothing ripped, and impractical shoes
lost in the heap. Face, hair, bodies and buildings are now coated in streaks of
red. Not many men, if any, occupy the last truck. From the truck’s chassis
tomatoes flow out like water and once again bathing the bare skin of
participants. It is more of an advantage to be taller than say 5 foot 7, than
to only be about 5 foot 2-5 inches, as the rioting crowd move down. Most people
are literally carried amongst others, being pushed and shoved in random
directions. This is the moment when most people fear for their life; being
squashed to death. The human tidal wave
that blemishes the square gets pushed out to the lower levels. After an hour long tomato fight the second
gunshot is fired into the air. Once the second gunshot is fired, you have to
immediately stop, by the rules and regulations implanted.
Those from balconies, watching the show, then grab buckets full of water and shower those underneath. There is not always enough hose pipes to cater for everyone, however the bucket idea is more of an animated joke, giving how long it will take to water around 20,000 people. On some occasions the weather has being a gift with heavy downpours. Many people head down to the Buñol River; this has become also a tradition; mostly the residents themselves.
People unite, and help in removing the tomatoes and cleaning the streets. People are amazed with how clean the streets look once the tomatoes have gone. The acidity in tomatoes provide the best cleaning product, resulting in everything looking refreshed and sparkling.
The first gunshot is fired at 11 am: when it begins.
The second gunshot is fire at 12 pm: when it finishes.
Once the streets are clean people unite and drink beverages and dance to the supplied music.
Franco on two occasions, which I mentioned up above, banned this from happening. His reasoning: the lack of symbolic meaning. In some ways this can be seen as a logical argument, given the fact a lot of common traditions stem from some form of purpose. However, in the 1970’s and out off the hands of Franco the government helped in bringing this new tradition to light. Those who have experienced or longing to experience this have never questioned the event.
So, how do you describe a tradition that has no purpose?
Simple!
It is a week to let your hair down, a senseless anarchy without any consequences. Not everything has to have a meaning to be appealing. I am sure there are thousands of people who just want a moment of madness in their life without having to explain themselves.
I have written and studied quite a lot of Spanish Traditions and I have ALWAYS come across those who disagree. I thought La Tomatina Festival would be different. I was wrong. Infact the first question I asked myself, if I was opposed to this tradition, would be?
The obvious!
Why, when there are so many people starving in the world, would people £pay to throw 150,000 tonnes of tomatoes at one another in the line of fun and entertainment?
And yes, I have come across this question so many times. I have read comment after comment about those who dislike the tradition for that purpose. They slate it and hate those who attend. However, the tomatoes that are used are produced purely for this event. There are inedible tomatoes; they cannot be used for food purposes.
So, now that that has being explained, what about Health and
Safety, I hear you ask. Once this tradition was accepted rules and regulations
were brought in. Here are some of the rules:
RULES:
Only take essentials with you-limited cash is
needed-have zips to protect-
You can bring a waterproof camera
-
Don’t wear anything you may wish to wear in the
future
-
Protect your train ticket from getting wet, you
will NOT be allowed on otherwise
-
It is advisable to buy safety goggles. This
prevents the acid from your eyes
-
Wear practical footwear. Sandals are NOT
advisable
-
When the trucks appear stand near the wall and
stand side-on to try and alleviate the sense you are being crushed.
-
Participants have to give way to the trucks at
all times
-
All tomatoes have to be crushed before throwing
to avoid injuries
-
No other form of projectiles except tomatoes
-
Bottles cannot be allowed in the square during
the fight
-
DO NOT rip other people’s shirts (Although this
still does happen)
-
Soon as you hear the second shot you MUST stop
throwing
-
You have to remove the majority of tomatoes from
your skin and clothing before getting on the train. You will NOT be allowed on
otherwise.
The chances of dying from a food fight, in less by some
strange coincidence happens to be the one thing you are allergic to, is highly
impossible.
Overall:
We live once. Why do we need to label and prioritise
everything in some form of practical order? How can we proclaim through life we
have had fun if everything has to have a purpose, surely that is demoralising
our chances of experience and acceptance to varied examples of different life
opportunities that are already there for the taking?
Have you attended the festival before or wish to?
Any experiences you wish to share?
ARE YOU FOR OR AGAINST THIS FESTIVAL AND EXPLAIN YOUR CHOICE.
JOIN IN WITH YOUR THOUGHTS, STORIES, PHOTOGRAPHS.
