HISTORY OF SAINT FERMIN
Pamplona; the historical Capital City of Navarre; Spain, was, back in 300AD, owned by the Great Roman Empire. Many speculative rumours are still surfing the waves, and, with limited evidence to suggest if it did or did not take place, devout Spaniards continue to mourn Saint Fermin, regardless.
Fermin; allegedly the son of a Roman-of-Senatorial-rank in Pamplona; named Firmus, converted to Christianity when a Presbyter called Honesto, (sent by a French Bishop-San Saturnino, also known as San Cernin) arrived in Roman Pamplona to evangelise the city. Firmus and his family converted to Christianity, including Fermin. When Fermin was old enough to preach, he went around the city independently, and inspired by San Saturnino converted more people. When Fermin took a trip to Toulouse (France) he was ordained a priest, making him the first Bishop of Pamplona when he returned.
San Saturnino, refused to stop preaching in France and was martyred, traditionally in 257AD, significantly by being tied to a bull by his feet and dragged to his death.
Fermin took a voyage to a few places in France before settling at Amiens, preaching the Gospel. Popular, he achieved a large conversion of people before being arrested and held in prison. He was later beheaded.
In the 7th Century, the then Bishop of Amiens; St Salve, ordered many people to pray for an indication of Fermin’s resting place. On the 3rd day, prays were, theoretically, answered when God sent a ray of sunlight, which pierced the wall of a monastery where the body laid. It is apparent, when the faithful dug their way to the body of St Fermin, a sweet odour arose from his grave. Miracles began to take place. Whilst the body of St Fermin was carried through the streets of Amien, a sweet odour from the relics caused the ice and snow to melt, trees and meadows flowed and came into leaf; trees inclined reverently towards the Saint; the sick miraculously healed and, the rich released their servants and serfs from servitude. From then on Saint Fermin was known to help and bless those in need.
FIESTA OF SANFERMINES
The festival of San Fermin, or Sanfermines; as it is locally known, derived in honour of Saint Fermin. Festivities including music, Bullfights, Bull Run and family entertainments, circulated the occasion, turning it into the most populated Festival of the year. The festival, which was commonly displayed in October, until 1951 when Pamplonicas, realised the weather was a disadvantage, and changed it to July when the weather is more reliable. Thousands of Spaniards and Tourists congregate in Pamplona, on the 6th July every year.
SPANISH TRANSLATION:
"Uno de enero, dos de febrero, tres de marzo, cuatro de abril, cinco de mayo, seis de junio siete de julio, ¡SAN FERMÍN! "Uno de enero, dos de febrero, tres de marzo, cuatro de abril, cinco de mayo, seis de junio siete de julio, ¡SAN FERMÍN! A Pamplona hemos de ir, con una media, con una media, a Pamplona hemos de ir con una media y un calcetín."
ENGLISH TRANSLATION
1ST January, 2nd February, 3rd March, 4th April, May 5th, June 6th, July 7th San Fermin x2
In Pamplona we go, mean, mean, Pamplona we go with a medium and a sock
Although the actual Running of the Bulls doesn’t start until the following morning, the normally-quiet-Spanish City is flooded with raring-to-go participants, waves of white clothing, crimson sashes held above their heads as they look up to the Council. The atmosphere is loud and tightly pressed. The heat, increasing. Yet, despite all this, everyone is in good spirits, passion and intensity igniting, waiting eagerly the few minutes to midday when the Chupinazo (Rocket) is launched to announce the start of the Fiesta.
Once someone from the Council has been nominated to launch the Chupinazo, the nominee shouts the following:
“PAMPLONESAS, PAMPLONESES, VIVA SAN FERMIN! GORA SAN FERMIN!
(People of Pamplona, long live San Fermin!)
-The Chupinazo is launched into Pamplona’s welcoming sky, indicating the start of the Fiesta.
The sash now gets tied around their necks.
People chant, scream for joy. Water, thrown from high balconies, land on a human river. Everyone is happy. Eggs, champagne and water are all in the line-up to be fired at you so, make sure you bring spare clothing, you will need it. Men and Women volunteer to be lifted into the air and, like a parcel, passed around welcoming hands.
If, after a while you fancy a new scene, Calle Estafeta is a popular bar, selling Sangria.
ERNEST HEMINGWAY:
Ernest Hemingway is a powerful name in Literature. Due to his references on Sanfermines in his articles as a reporter, and through the narrative voice of protagonist Jake Barnes, in Hemingway’s popular Novel, “Fiesta: The sun also rises”, the Fiesta of Sanfermines grew in world-wide recognition.
"The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences during the fiesta."
- Chapter 15: The sun also rises, Ernest Hemingway
Ernest Hemingway fell in love with the, then tranquil City of Navarre. Between 1923 and 1931
Ernest experienced 7 Fiestas. He was very at home there, being an aficionado of the Running of the Bulls and Bullfighting, inspiring his moods and manner. Following the Spanish Civil War and WWII, Ernest didn’t return until 1953. It is, with great sadness, believed on his final expedition to Pamplona, the city that inspired his books and creative mind, felt lost. He no longer recognised Pamplona as it once was in the 1920s. Controlled by Fascist General Franco, Hemingway’s books were banned for two decades. Speculations suggest that this was the result, or at least, a part, towards his suicide
7th JULY-THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS-BEGIN
The most famous scene of the Fiesta is the Encierro (The running of the bulls).
What is normally considered a quiet part of Pamplona, soon adjusts, entertaining 1500-3500 runners approximately each morning from the 7th-14th July. The route measures 0.5 miles (825 meters) Starting from 6am, work crew set out removing all debris from the cobble streets in preparation. Then the fences are installed, for safety and direction. Those who volunteer to run make their way to Santo Domingo.
Before the Running of the Bulls start, a traditional blessing is represented in the direction of a niche that holds the image of Saint Fermin. The ritual is very emotional. Hands wave a rolled up newspaper-this is essential-and chant the following lines:
A san fermin pedimos, por ser nuestro patrón, nos guie en el Encierro, dándonos su bendición.
(We ask San fermin, for he is our patron, to guide us in the Bull Run, giving us his blessing)
This is repeated x3 at 7-55am, 7-57am, 7-59am
It ends with shouts of;
Viva San Fermin! Gora San Fermin!
(Long live San Fermin, first in Spanish then repeated in Basque.)
Nerves feed on fear as the participants wait for the first rocket to launch _when the clock on the church of San Cernin strikes 8am_the rocket is launched. Floods of people run on the cobbles, with thousands of people; the audience cheer them on.
The Fear feeds on nervous participants as they wait anxiously (carrying the rolled up newspaper, it is used to gain distance from the Bulls) for the first Rocket to be launched, signifying 8am on the Church of San Cernin.
8am arrives, the Rocket is launched, and fuelled-on-adrenaline, runners make their way down the narrow cobblestone streets. The second Rocket indicates the Bulls have left the corral, the third meaning the Bulls are in the Bull ring and the final one announces the Bulls are in the corrals at the Bull ring.
The Running of the Bulls usually takes 3-1/2 minutes, providing the Bulls go in the right direction and not separated from the herd or accidents involving someone being gored having happened.
SECTIONS OF THE BULLRUN
¡ SANTO DOMINGO-The distance between the corrals and Plaza Consistorial is 280 meters. This, due to a steep slope and the fact the Bulls tend to stick together, is classed as a dangerous section.
¡ PLAZA CONSISTORIAL-100 Meters. This is classed the least dangerous section, which is quite surprising considering there are two bends. There is more running space and plenty of cubbyholes for protection.
¡ BEND OF ESTAFETA-This part starts with a 90-degree right-hand angle, which often makes the Bulls lose control and slip and crash into barriers. This is also quite a dangerous spot if you don’t take the bend on the inside.
¡ TELEFONICA-This is the favourite spot for the advanced runners as the route turns in a funnel, made by the barriers narrowing. Sometimes the herd break up in this section.
¡ LANE-This is responsible for pile ups as the lane is narrow and many runners and Bulls that have caught up struggle to get in at a quick pace.
¡ BULLRING-The Bulls run into the ring and fleece around, it is the job of the Dobladores to direct the Bulls to the corral.
RULES:
Due the extensive danger for those who take part in the Bull Run, there are strict rules. These rules are there to keep you and fellow runners safe. It is essential to follow the rules or the police will intervene and remove you off the premises.
No-one under the age of 18 can take part.
No-one under substances; Drink or drugs can take part.
To wear inappropriate clothing and footwear.
To call/distract/touch the Bulls, this is strictly prohibited.
To stop in the Bull Run, or station on the barriers or walls, this could impede runners and danger lives.
Cameras and video cameras are not permitted in the running of the Bulls. Cameras distract and causes slow movement, causing predictable injuries. The police are very strict about this rule.
If you fall, do not get up. Instead, lay in the fetal position until the Bulls have passed and you have being given confirmation that it is safe to get up.
USEFUL INFORMATION:
If you are keen on running but are a stranger to it, it is better to gain experience of the route. Take a walk along the route, ask for advice. Sleep is very important too. Without the sleep your body needs, functioning can be delayed; this is not good if you are running with the Bulls. Although, seeing angry Bulls behind you would definitely wake you up. Sensible running shoes are essentials, tied tight, last thing you need is for shoe laces to come undone.
This question keeps repeating in my mind:
“Would you ever take part in the Running of the Bulls?”
Well, firstly my reply would be:
“FUCK THAT!” and with a few more minutes to think about it… “YEAH, FUCK THAT!”
However, I respect the individuals whose feet allow them to run, without buckling in fear.
I remember a while ago I had a vivid dream (no doubt due to all the research, writing and viewing of film clips) -that I was taking part in the Bull Run. I felt confident, yet nervous. The weather was beautiful and the crowds were as much hyped up as the participants. The Rocket launched and my tiny feet ran. I say ran...I looked more like a crab on speed; I was all over the shop. Still, with a smile on my face and uncontrolled horse power in my legs I was gaining distance. Then I felt this almighty tremor in the cobblestoned path, vibrations that made you skip. I looked back, BIG MISTAKE. This dark brown bull with white patches looked directly at me. Well, let me tell you this…I was no longer running like a crab on speed. I was running like a Bull was behind me. I couldn’t help but keep looking back. Newspaper wrapped in my left hand and an undignified alarm in sign language with my other. I tripped, flat on my face. The Bull stopped, a few feet away. I was in a position of fear and confusion. Do I move or stay down, or continue having a blinking competition with an angered Bull? The Bulls back leg moved, mauling angrily. He ran, charging right at me. His horns went straight through my shoulder and he tossed me in the air. My scream, in general is quite embarrassing, in my dream? It is even more embarrassing. So I have just being gored, thrown into the air and the only thing I am thinking about is “Did anyone notice my embarrassing scream?” He came back at me again, this time gently nudging me, into the middle of the path, spectators looking on. His eyes, dark, bullying, is this Karma? He got up and ran into the direction of the Bull Ring. I got up, patted myself down with my working arm. The spectators cheered. I cheered too. Then, I felt that same movement in the ground. 4 heavier bulls where heading my way. Needless to say I woke up by my, usually-annoying, alarm.
It is the closest I am ever getting to an angry Bull.
SO, THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS IS NOW OVER, WHAT NEXT? :
SAN FERMIN THE PROCESSION
Throughout the year the reliquary of Saint Fermin is spent in the Parish Church of San Lorenzo. However, on the 7th July every year six bearers carry the 364 kilogram relic through the streets of the old town for Pamploneses to devote their gratitude and blessing. As well as the relic passing through the streets there are music festivities, the Troupe of Giants and Bigheads and thousands of spectators admiring the show and religious values. Once the image of the saint enters the chapel of san fermin the mass begins. The giants dance in the square, in front of the City Hall.
GIANT AND BIG-HEAD PARADE
In 1860 Tadeo Amorena-A Pamplona painter, created the eight giant figures. The figures, representing four pairs of Kings and Queens from around the world; Europe, Asia, America and Africa, approximately 4-5 metres each and are carried by a dancer inside the wooden structure. During the festival and parade of Saint Fermin
The wooden structures represent 4 pairs of Kings and Queens from around the world (Europe, Asia, America and Africa). During the parade of Saint Fermin the, approximately 4-5 metre frame, is carried by dancers that perform to traditional music. There are also 6 Kilikis, 5 big-heads and 6 Zaldikos, all built between 1860 and 1941. Kilkis and big-heads are known as caricaturesque, that look like big helmets. Big-heads go before the giants and wave to the delightful audience, including young children. Kilikis run after children and carry a foam truncheon which they use to hit them with.
To be fair, if a Kilikis came near me, I would have nightmares for the rest of my life. They are so scary looking, or am I just being a wimp? I wonder!
FIREWORKS
After the Bull Run, the music, the Giant heads and continuous flow of alcohol, there is a beautiful firework display, held at the Citadel Park, occupied by thousands of people watching them, seated on the grass around the Citadel.
POBRE DE MI
On the 9th day of the festival (14th July), the people of Pamplona and Tourists gather in the Townhall Plaza at midnight. The end of the festival has arrived. This is a very emotional ceremony. Just before midnight the mayor appears on the top balcony to end the fiesta. Crowds hold candles in the air, illuminating the darkness of the night. The atmosphere is filled with sorrow instead of gaiety; accumulating tiredness, there is no desire to have fun. It is essential to remove the red scarves, signifying the end of the festival.
The crowds, holding a candle, and their red scarves into the air, sing:
"Pobre de mí, pobre de mí, que se han acabao las fiestas de San Fermín”
(Poor old me, poor old me, the San Fermin fiestas has ended)
OVERVIEW:
Regardless of the lack of concrete evidence that would prove whether Saint Fermin existed or not, the Spaniards and the citizens of Basque continue to believe the myth that belongs to Saint Fermin, who reportedly, converted many residents of Spain and France to Christianity. Their devotion to the saint of Navarre is deeply expressed throughout the year, particularly in July; the Fiesta of Sanfermines. It is a celebration, appreciation. The festival, which is 9 days of alcohol, music, dance, running of the bulls, evening bullfight and, the performance of the Giant and Big heads alongside the procession of Saint Fermin, is a joyful but emotional atmosphere. Many tourists are not fully aware of the reason behind such a festival, which I find rude. It is like gate-crashing some-ones house party who you do not know, just for the sake of a free drink. I have huge respect for the Spanish and Basque.
From the beginning of this journey, writing upon Sanfermines has being like a rollercoaster, my emotions have experienced the happiness that surrounds the festival and, the grieving for a Saint they highly consider. I am not a religious person, however, researching, writing, and viewing such scenes has made me analyse Saint Fermin a bit more than I initially intended. The history about the Saint, despite the verification, touched my heart. It does sound very plausible and, even if in later years it turns out to be just a myth, I highly believe the Spanish and Basque, me included, would still continue to think of a man who (could-be-mythical, given hard evidence that dismisses his existence) willingly sacrificed his life converting thousands of willing people to Christianity, inspired by the French Bishop; San Saturnino.
Thrill-seekers from around the world head to Pamplona annually to take part in Running of the Bulls. History tells us, back in the 14th century, bulls where lead from their over-night corrals through the cobbled streets to the market to be sold. It is believed men would jump alongside the bulls in order to speed the process. After many years of speeding the process, men turned it into a competition. It was only through the popularity of Ernest Hemingway’s book; Fiesta: The sun also rises, did tourist come to see and take part.
However, I no longer believe it’s a competition with the bulls, but with each other. A man’s ego can be easily bruised and what better way, than to run in front of many angry bulls?
The overall Festival: Loud, energetic, fun, music, drink, lack of sleep, adrenaline, a great experience, even if just once in a lifetime.
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