Interview with John Hemingway (The grandson of Ernest Hemingway)

Interview with John Hemingway:





Fiesta: The sun also rises, The Garden of Eden, The Old man and the sea, and Hemingway’s boat are just a few of my favourite books penned by Ernest Hemingway. From a young age I remember active butterflies that danced in my stomach whenever I came across a book of Ernest Hemingway; there was no hiding the fact he inspired me. As-a-matter-of-fact I would go as far as saying, if it wasn’t for reading his books, my passion for writing may never have begun.

There is a permanent smile on my face whenever I see an image or hear of Ernest Hemingway.

A few months ago, I, amazingly, came in contact with John Hemingway-the Grandson of Ernest. I was very keen to read his book; Strange Tribe: A Family Memoir. Throughout reading his book, my emotions had paid for a ride  on a Rollercoaster- I was happy on a few pages then sadness would grip my heart on the others, I am not afraid to tell you a few tears shed down my face.
It gave me an insight into the Hemingway family that I had not read, nor known before. John Hemingway, who’s now a father of two, told the world in his Memoir the difficulties that faced his upbringing. Greg Hemingway; the father of John, suffered with Bi-polar and took an interest in androgyny-that would eventually lead to his cross-dressing. Both Ernest and Greg Hemingway suffered Bi-polar and depression.

John Hemingway portrayed the relationship of Ernest and Greg extremely well.

John Hemingway offered me the opportunity to interview him for my blog. There are no words in the dictionary that can describe my reaction to the exact feeling(s) I had. Me, interviewing John Hemingway! Wow!

This interview covers questions relating to Ernest and Greg Hemingway, and his thoughts towards Pamplona Bull Run.
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(L.L) Fernando Hulade claims Ernest Hemingway, did, in actual fact, run with the bulls in Pamplona 7th July 1924. However, I have not found any evidence that can correspond to his indication. Have you ever found any substantial proof that Ernest ran with the bulls-given the fact he had an imperfection with his left eye and shrapnel from an explosion?

(J.H) I HAVE NO PROOF THAT MY GRANDFATHER EVER RAN

When you realised the dysfunctional side to the Hemingway name, did you become worried how “your future” would pan out?


NO, IF A PERSON IS BI-POLAR USUALLY THAT MANIFESTS ITSELF IN THE LATE TEENS, I WASN’T.

Do you believe the “Hemingway curse” has finished?

 I DON’T BELIEVE IN THE “HEMINGWAY CURSE” TO BEGIN WITH. THERE HAVE BEEN CERTAIN PSYCHOLOGICAL CONDITIONS IN MY FAMILY, SUCH AS BI-POLAR CONDITION AND CLINICAL DEPRESSION, BUT THAT IS HARDLY WHAT I WOULD CALL A CURSE.

Do you believe there are people who, like Ernest himself, ignored everything other than his masculinity, never wanting to admit that behind his masculine ego, was a confused man who became obsessed with androgyny?

I DON’T THINK MY GRANDFATHER WAS AS THE QUESTIONER DESCRIBES HIM. HE WAS A LOT MORE COMPLEX THAN SOME PEOPLE APPARENTLY GIVES HIM CREDIT FOR BEING.

Do you think the Running of the Bulls; was Ernest’s way of expressing, or forcing, his masculinity-that every man, who runs, is proving his strength and ego rather than the sole purpose of religion?

HE NEVER RAN WITH THE BULLS, HE WATCHED THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS.

After the death of his father, Clarence Hemingway, Ernest was quoted saying “I’ll probably go the same way” but then contradicts himself at a further date quoting “My father was a coward. He shot himself without necessity.” What is your opinion towards Ernest’s death?

HE WAS SUFFERING FROM CLINICAL DEPRESSION AND, UNFORTUNATELY, IN THAT STATE, THE DEPTH OF THE DEPRESSION IS SO DEEP, SO DARK, THAT MANY BELIEVE THAT SUICIDE IS THE ONLY WAY OUT, AND THEY END UP TAKING THEIR OWN LIVES.

Ernest brought many tourists to Sanfermines from his famously popular book, that described Pamplona Bull Run and Festivals from the 7-14th July, in: Fiesta: The Sun Also Rises, yet there is stigma that surfaces from those who believe he is responsible of continuous animal cruelty, what do you say about this?

WELL, THE CORRIDA AND THE ENCIERRO EXISTED BEFORE ERNEST AND HAVE CONTINUED AFTER HIS DEATH. THEY ARE A PART OF SPAIN’S CULTURE AND MY GRANDFATHER DID NOT CREATE THIS, ALTHOUGH HE ADMIRED THIS ABOUT SPAIN AND ITS CULTURE. THE BULLS USED IN CORRIDA AND IN THE ENCIERROS WOULD NOT EXIST WITHOUT BULLFIGHTING, WHICH IS CONSIDERED AN ART FORM BY MANY IN SPAIN. THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE WILD BULLS THAT USED TO ROAM EUROPE AND THEY THEMSELVES ARE WILD, HAVING LITTLE CONTACT WITH MEN UP UNTIL THE TIME, USUALLY AROUND 4 YEARS, WHEN THEY ARE SENT OFF TO FIGHT AND DIE IN THE RINGS OF SPAIN.

What do you, being a member of GATOS Bullfighting Club, consist of?

IT’S A PENA, A SOCIAL CLUB, AND BASICALLY DURING THE FIESTA WE ENJOY OURSELVES AND PARTY AND RUN AND DO WHATEVER ELSE IS HAPPENING IN THE STREETS, BECAUSE IN PAMPLONA “LA FIEST ES POR LA CALLE.”

Why did it take some time for you to attend Pamplona; San Fermin Festival?

 NO REAL REASON, I WAS JUST BUSY DOING OTHER THINGS.

It is believed Ernest suffered with Hemochromatosis that was never treated. This caused weakness, joint pain and impotence. On top of that it is believed by psychologists who have looked into Ernest’s manner and mental state he suffered with Borderline and Narcissistic Personality Traits, Bi-polar, Alcohol dependence and Traumatic Brain Injury. Not forgetting his generic eye imperfection and shrapnel. He was given up to 15 electric shock treatments that can does cause memory loss, confusion and depression. His denial of his sexuality, the guilt of his Father’s death, his Son; Gregory, into dressing in women’s clothes and the distant relationship in which they showed no gratitude for one another, the part General Franco played in removing the delightful atmosphere in Pamplona and his removal of Ernest’s book and his continuous paranoia are all plausible reasons into his suicide, do you believe he was ever happy and comfortable with who he was?

I DON’T THINK THAT MY GRANDFATHER WAS DENYING HIS SEXUALITY; HE HAD THREE KIDS AFTER ALL. I BELIEVE MY GRANDFATHER ENJOYED HIS LIFE IN A WAY THAT MOST OF US CAN ONLY DREAM OF DOING. HE LIVED HIS LIFE TO THE FULLEST.

Did you fear having your own child due to the relationship of Ernest-Greg Greg-and you?

NO. NOT AT ALL. I HAVE TWO CHILDREN, A BOY AND A GIRL.

What valuable lesson have you learnt in life?

FORGIVENESS IS IMPORTANT. FRIENDS ARE IMPORTANT AND LIFE IS SHORT, DON’T WAIT TO DO TOMORROW WHAT YOU CAN DO TODAY.

If you could go back in time, would you change any of the Hemingway History?

 NO.

How did you feel, after finding out about your Father’s like for wearing women’s clothing?

IT DIDN’T BOTHER ME, HE WAS STILL MY DAD, AND HE JUST LIKED A DIFFERENT KIND OF FASHION, THAT’S ALL.

When speaking to your Father as Gloria, did you respect His/her new identity and refer to her as Gloria or as Greg?

NO. I HAVE ALWAYS REFERRED TO MY FATHER AS “DAD” OR “GREG.” HE OF COURSE COULD CALL HIMSELF WHATEVER HE PLEASED.

Have you ever, at any one point, questioned your sexuality?

NO. I HAVEN’T.

Do you have any possessions of Ernest’s?

PART OF HIS DNA.

Do you believe, now that time has changed, including society, if it were possible to bring; Clarence, Ernest, Greg and Yourself, into a room together you would get along?

WHY SHOULDN’T WE? WE’RE HEMINGWAYS, AFTER ALL, RELATED BY BLOOD. I THINK IT’D BE FUN TO HAVE A DRINK WITH THEM.

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When John Hemingway notified me with the complete interview, I was feeling nervous and excited at the same time, understandable considering John Hemingway is the first ever person I have had the opportunity to interview and trust me, it means a lot. I read through his answers, learning something new with each sentence. When it came to the question; “Do you have any possessions of Ernest’s?”-And he replied “His DNA”-wow, what a fantastic answer!

NOTE TO JOHN HEMINGWAY.

The moment we first talked is so clear in my mind. I remember being completely lost for words.

What do you say, without coming across as a mental fan?

I mean, inside my head, I was dancing around my living room screaming!

You have made me feel welcome, and allowed me to express my passion for you and your family.

Ernest made me pick up my pen at a young age. I wrote and wrote and wrote. Nothing made sense, not really. The point was I was creating a fictional world in which I could be anyone, be anywhere. I have being writing online since 2003, firstly writing poetry-in which I still write, and Spanish Culture articles for my blog.  

Then I got to know you, and had the pleasure of reading your book. I was hooked! I then asked for more of your work to read, in which you sent me your blog webpage, allowing me to read more of your personal work. You have great talent! And, although Ernest Hemingway’s books have finished, it does not mean my pen will be put down, far from it. You are someone I have full appreciation and respect for!

John, thank you!

Thank you for giving me the time of day
For allowing me the chance to interview you, and your friendship! 

This opportunity, and the communication I have with you, PRICELESS!



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SANFERMINE FESTIVAL AND THE HISTORY BEHIND IT!

 

HISTORY OF SAINT FERMIN

Pamplona; the historical Capital City of Navarre; Spain, was, back in 300AD, owned by the Great Roman Empire. Many speculative rumours are still surfing the waves, and, with limited evidence to suggest if it did or did not take place, devout Spaniards continue to mourn Saint Fermin, regardless.
Fermin; allegedly the son of a Roman-of-Senatorial-rank in Pamplona; named Firmus, converted to Christianity when a Presbyter called Honesto, (sent by a French Bishop-San Saturnino, also known as San Cernin) arrived in Roman Pamplona to evangelise the city. Firmus and his family converted to Christianity, including Fermin. When Fermin was old enough to preach, he went around the city independently, and inspired by San Saturnino converted more people. When Fermin took a trip to Toulouse (France) he was ordained a priest, making him the first Bishop of Pamplona when he returned.   
San Saturnino, refused to stop preaching in France and was martyred, traditionally in 257AD, significantly by being tied to a bull by his feet and dragged to his death.
Fermin took a voyage to a few places in France before settling at Amiens, preaching the Gospel. Popular, he achieved a large conversion of people before being arrested and held in prison. He was later beheaded.
In the 7th Century, the then Bishop of Amiens; St Salve, ordered many people to pray for an indication of Fermin’s resting place. On the 3rd day, prays were, theoretically, answered when God sent a ray of sunlight, which pierced the wall of a monastery where the body laid. It is apparent, when the faithful dug their way to the body of St Fermin, a sweet odour arose from his grave. Miracles began to take place. Whilst the body of St Fermin was carried through the streets of Amien, a sweet odour from the relics caused the ice and snow to melt, trees and meadows flowed and came into leaf; trees inclined reverently towards the Saint; the sick miraculously healed and, the rich released their servants and serfs from servitude. From then on Saint Fermin was known to help and bless those in need.

FIESTA OF SANFERMINES

The festival of San Fermin, or Sanfermines; as it is locally known, derived in honour of Saint Fermin. Festivities including music, Bullfights, Bull Run and family entertainments, circulated the occasion, turning it into the most populated Festival of the year. The festival, which was commonly displayed in October, until 1951 when Pamplonicas, realised the weather was a disadvantage, and changed it to July when the weather is more reliable. Thousands of Spaniards and Tourists congregate in Pamplona, on the 6th July every year.

SPANISH TRANSLATION:
"Uno de enero, dos de febrero, tres de marzo, cuatro de abril, cinco de mayo, seis de junio siete de julio, ¡SAN FERMÍN! "Uno de enero, dos de febrero, tres de marzo, cuatro de abril, cinco de mayo, seis de junio siete de julio, ¡SAN FERMÍN! A Pamplona hemos de ir, con una media, con una media, a Pamplona hemos de ir con una media y un calcetín."

ENGLISH TRANSLATION
 1ST January, 2nd February, 3rd March, 4th April, May 5th, June 6th, July 7th San Fermin x2

In Pamplona we go, mean, mean, Pamplona we go with a medium and a sock

Although the actual Running of the Bulls doesn’t start until the following morning, the normally-quiet-Spanish City is flooded with raring-to-go participants, waves of white clothing,  crimson sashes held above their heads as they look up to the Council. The atmosphere is loud and tightly pressed. The heat, increasing. Yet, despite all this, everyone is in good spirits, passion and intensity igniting, waiting eagerly the few minutes to midday when the Chupinazo (Rocket) is launched to announce the start of the Fiesta. 

Once someone from the Council has been nominated to launch the Chupinazo, the nominee shouts the following:
 “PAMPLONESAS, PAMPLONESES, VIVA SAN FERMIN! GORA SAN FERMIN!
  (People of Pamplona, long live San Fermin!)

-The Chupinazo is launched into Pamplona’s welcoming sky, indicating the start of the Fiesta.

The sash now gets tied around their necks.
 People chant, scream for joy. Water, thrown from high balconies, land on a human river. Everyone is happy. Eggs, champagne and water are all in the line-up to be fired at you so, make sure you bring spare clothing, you will need it. Men and Women volunteer to be lifted into the air and, like a parcel, passed around welcoming hands.

If, after a while you fancy a new scene, Calle Estafeta is a popular bar, selling Sangria.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY:

Ernest Hemingway is a powerful name in Literature. Due to his references on Sanfermines in his articles as a reporter, and through the narrative voice of protagonist Jake Barnes, in Hemingway’s popular Novel, “Fiesta: The sun also rises”, the Fiesta of Sanfermines grew in world-wide recognition.

"The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences during the fiesta." 
- Chapter 15: The sun also rises, Ernest Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway fell in love with the, then tranquil City of Navarre. Between 1923 and 1931
Ernest experienced 7 Fiestas. He was very at home there, being an aficionado of the Running of the Bulls and Bullfighting, inspiring his moods and manner. Following the Spanish Civil War and WWII, Ernest didn’t return until 1953. It is, with great sadness, believed on his final expedition to Pamplona, the city that inspired his books and creative mind, felt lost. He no longer recognised Pamplona as it once was in the 1920s. Controlled by Fascist General Franco, Hemingway’s books were banned for two decades. Speculations suggest that this was the result, or at least, a part, towards his suicide

7th JULY-THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS-BEGIN

The most famous scene of the Fiesta is the Encierro (The running of the bulls).

What is normally considered a quiet part of Pamplona, soon adjusts, entertaining 1500-3500 runners approximately each morning from the 7th-14th July. The route measures 0.5 miles (825 meters) Starting from 6am, work crew set out removing all debris from the cobble streets in preparation. Then the fences are installed, for safety and direction. Those who volunteer to run make their way to Santo Domingo.
Before the Running of the Bulls start, a traditional blessing is represented in the direction of a niche that holds the image of Saint Fermin.  The ritual is very emotional. Hands wave a rolled up newspaper-this is essential-and chant the following lines:

A san fermin pedimos, por ser nuestro patrón, nos guie en el Encierro, dándonos su bendición.

(We ask San fermin, for he is our patron, to guide us in the Bull Run, giving us his blessing)

This is repeated x3 at 7-55am, 7-57am, 7-59am

It ends with shouts of;
Viva San Fermin! Gora San Fermin!
(Long live San Fermin, first in Spanish then repeated in Basque.)


Nerves feed on fear as the participants wait for the first rocket to launch _when the clock on the church of San Cernin strikes 8am_the rocket is launched. Floods of people run on the cobbles, with thousands of people; the audience cheer them on.

The Fear feeds on nervous participants as they wait anxiously (carrying the rolled up newspaper, it is used to gain distance from the Bulls) for the first Rocket to be launched, signifying 8am on the Church of San Cernin.

 8am arrives, the Rocket is launched, and fuelled-on-adrenaline, runners make their way down the narrow cobblestone streets. The second Rocket indicates the Bulls have left the corral, the third meaning the Bulls are in the Bull ring and the final one announces the Bulls are in the corrals at the Bull ring.

The Running of the Bulls usually takes 3-1/2 minutes, providing the Bulls go in the right direction and not separated from the herd or accidents involving someone being gored having happened.

SECTIONS OF THE BULLRUN

¡        SANTO DOMINGO-The distance between the corrals and Plaza Consistorial is 280 meters. This, due to a steep slope and the fact the Bulls tend to stick together, is classed as a dangerous section.

¡        PLAZA CONSISTORIAL-100 Meters. This is classed the least dangerous section, which is quite surprising considering there are two bends. There is more running space and plenty of cubbyholes for protection.

¡        BEND OF ESTAFETA-This part starts with a 90-degree right-hand angle, which often makes the Bulls lose control and slip and crash into barriers. This is also quite a dangerous spot if you don’t take the bend on the inside.

¡        TELEFONICA-This is the favourite spot for the advanced runners as the route turns in a funnel, made by the barriers narrowing. Sometimes the herd break up in this section.

¡        LANE-This is responsible for pile ups as the lane is narrow and many runners and Bulls that have caught up struggle to get in at a quick pace.

¡        BULLRING-The Bulls run into the ring and fleece around, it is the job of the Dobladores to direct the Bulls to the corral.

RULES:


Due the extensive danger for those who take part in the Bull Run, there are strict rules. These rules are there to keep you and fellow runners safe. It is essential to follow the rules or the police will intervene and remove you off the premises.

                

No-one under the age of 18 can take part.
No-one under substances; Drink or drugs can take part.
To wear inappropriate clothing and footwear.
To call/distract/touch the Bulls, this is strictly prohibited.
To stop in the Bull Run, or station on the barriers or walls, this could impede runners and danger lives.

Cameras and video cameras are not permitted in the running of the Bulls. Cameras distract and causes slow movement, causing predictable injuries. The police are very strict about this rule.
If you fall, do not get up. Instead, lay in the fetal position until the Bulls have passed and you have being given confirmation that it is safe to get up.


USEFUL INFORMATION:

If you are keen on running but are a stranger to it, it is better to gain experience of the route. Take a walk along the route, ask for advice. Sleep is very important too. Without the sleep your body needs, functioning can be delayed; this is not good if you are running with the Bulls. Although, seeing angry Bulls behind you would definitely wake you up. Sensible running shoes are essentials, tied tight, last thing you need is for shoe laces to come undone.

This question keeps repeating in my mind:

“Would you ever take part in the Running of the Bulls?”

Well, firstly my reply would be:
“FUCK THAT!” and with a few more minutes to think about it… “YEAH, FUCK THAT!”

However, I respect the individuals whose feet allow them to run, without buckling in fear.

I remember a while ago I had a vivid dream (no doubt due to all the research, writing and viewing of film clips) -that I was taking part in the Bull Run. I felt confident, yet nervous. The weather was beautiful and the crowds were as much hyped up as the participants. The Rocket launched and my tiny feet ran. I say ran...I looked more like a crab on speed; I was all over the shop. Still, with a smile on my face and uncontrolled horse power in my legs I was gaining distance. Then I felt this almighty tremor in the cobblestoned path, vibrations that made you skip. I looked back, BIG MISTAKE. This dark brown bull with white patches looked directly at me. Well, let me tell you this…I was no longer running like a crab on speed. I was running like a Bull was behind me. I couldn’t help but keep looking back. Newspaper wrapped in my left hand and an undignified alarm in sign language with my other. I tripped, flat on my face. The Bull stopped, a few feet away. I was in a position of fear and confusion. Do I move or stay down, or continue having a blinking competition with an angered Bull? The Bulls back leg moved, mauling angrily. He ran, charging right at me. His horns went straight through my shoulder and he tossed me in the air. My scream, in general is quite embarrassing, in my dream? It is even more embarrassing. So I have just being gored, thrown into the air and the only thing I am thinking about is “Did anyone notice my embarrassing scream?” He came back at me again, this time gently nudging me, into the middle of the path, spectators looking on. His eyes, dark, bullying, is this Karma?  He got up and ran into the direction of the Bull Ring. I got up, patted myself down with my working arm. The spectators cheered. I cheered too. Then, I felt that same movement in the ground. 4 heavier bulls where heading my way. Needless to say I woke up by my, usually-annoying, alarm.

It is the closest I am ever getting to an angry Bull.

SO, THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS IS NOW OVER, WHAT NEXT? :





SAN FERMIN THE PROCESSION

Throughout the year the reliquary of Saint Fermin is spent in the Parish Church of San Lorenzo. However, on the 7th July every year six bearers carry the 364 kilogram relic through the streets of the old town for Pamploneses to devote their gratitude and blessing. As well as the relic passing through the streets there are music festivities, the Troupe of Giants and Bigheads and thousands of spectators admiring the show and religious values. Once the image of the saint enters the chapel of san fermin the mass begins. The giants dance in the square, in front of the City Hall.

GIANT AND BIG-HEAD PARADE

In 1860 Tadeo Amorena-A Pamplona painter, created the eight giant figures. The figures, representing four pairs of Kings and Queens from around the world; Europe, Asia, America and Africa, approximately 4-5 metres each and are carried by a dancer inside the wooden structure. During the festival and parade of Saint Fermin


The wooden structures represent 4 pairs of Kings and Queens from around the world (Europe, Asia, America and Africa). During the parade of Saint Fermin the, approximately 4-5 metre frame, is carried by dancers that perform to traditional music. There are also 6 Kilikis, 5 big-heads and 6 Zaldikos, all built between 1860 and 1941. Kilkis and big-heads are known as caricaturesque, that look like big helmets. Big-heads go before the giants and wave to the delightful audience, including young children. Kilikis run after children and carry a foam truncheon which they use to hit them with.
To be fair, if a Kilikis came near me, I would have nightmares for the rest of my life. They are so scary looking, or am I just being a wimp? I wonder!

FIREWORKS

After the Bull Run, the music, the Giant heads and continuous flow of alcohol, there is a beautiful firework display, held at the Citadel Park, occupied by thousands of people watching them, seated on the grass around the Citadel.

POBRE DE MI


On the 9th day of the festival (14th July), the people of Pamplona and Tourists gather in the Townhall Plaza at midnight. The end of the festival has arrived. This is a very emotional ceremony. Just before midnight the mayor appears on the top balcony to end the fiesta. Crowds hold candles in the air, illuminating the darkness of the night. The atmosphere is filled with sorrow instead of gaiety; accumulating tiredness, there is no desire to have fun. It is essential to remove the red scarves, signifying the end of the festival.
The crowds, holding a candle, and their red scarves into the air, sing:

"Pobre de mí, pobre de mí, que se han acabao las fiestas de San Fermín”
(Poor old me, poor old me, the San Fermin fiestas has ended)


OVERVIEW:

Regardless of the lack of concrete evidence that would prove whether Saint Fermin existed or not, the Spaniards and the citizens of Basque continue to believe the myth that belongs to Saint Fermin, who reportedly, converted many residents of Spain and France to Christianity. Their devotion to the saint of Navarre is deeply expressed throughout the year, particularly in July; the Fiesta of Sanfermines. It is a celebration, appreciation. The festival, which is 9 days of alcohol, music, dance, running of the bulls, evening bullfight and, the performance of the Giant and Big heads alongside the procession of Saint Fermin, is a joyful but emotional atmosphere. Many tourists are not fully aware of the reason behind such a festival, which I find rude. It is like gate-crashing some-ones house party who you do not know, just for the sake of a free drink. I have huge respect for the Spanish and Basque.

From the beginning of this journey, writing upon Sanfermines has being like a rollercoaster, my emotions have experienced the happiness that surrounds the festival and, the grieving for a Saint they highly consider. I am not a religious person, however, researching, writing, and viewing such scenes has made me analyse Saint Fermin a bit more than I initially intended. The history about the Saint, despite the verification, touched my heart. It does sound very plausible and, even if in later years it turns out to be just a myth, I highly believe the Spanish and Basque, me included, would still continue to think of a man who (could-be-mythical, given hard evidence that dismisses his existence) willingly sacrificed his life converting thousands of willing people to Christianity, inspired by the French Bishop; San Saturnino.


Thrill-seekers from around the world head to Pamplona annually to take part in Running of the Bulls. History tells us, back in the 14th century, bulls where lead from their over-night corrals through the cobbled streets to the market to be sold. It is believed men would jump alongside the bulls in order to speed the process. After many years of speeding the process, men turned it into a competition. It was only through the popularity of Ernest Hemingway’s book; Fiesta: The sun also rises, did tourist come to see and take part.

However, I no longer believe it’s a competition with the bulls, but with each other. A man’s ego can be easily bruised and what better way, than to run in front of many angry bulls?



The overall Festival: Loud, energetic, fun, music, drink, lack of sleep, adrenaline,  a great experience, even if just once in a lifetime.

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A Bohemian's Journey-Barcelona

 

So many nights I have rested beneath the unnerved sky,

plucking the strings of a lyre.

Sacrificed made decisions, to be free spirited.

A life of a Bohemian I am now at ease with life; smiling  

Concentrating on producing a picturesque painting.

 

Red wine spices my tongue

Before feeling the essence as I swallow,

wiping the discoloured effect off my lips.

Strewn grass caressing my feet

On this warm August evening.

 

My hands reach into my torn breeches.

Looking on I see pure beauty.

All around significant quality.

Antonio Gaudi  masterpieces grasps my attention

And I look on in awe, admiration...

 



Engaging, I breathe in, deep, inhaling inspiration

Absorbing my surroundings through my modern cameras eye.

Distant sound of euphonious Spanish Guitar

Flamenco dancers drawing crowds 

Active kids running around

All the while the tip of my brush

Begins a journey on what was, a empty canvas.

Spanish Bullfighting: FOR or AGAINST?

We, naively, automatically presume in life maturity evolves unaided and those decisions we make are based purely on our assumptions of right and wrong. We try to dissect all analytical methods and reasoning’s representing our beliefs wittingly and, believe whichever election we make or, agree on, we do not feel obliged to justify ourselves. However, what happens if you can see both sides to an argument. How do you go about expressing yourself? This was the dilemma I found myself being an active part of such engagement.  

Bullfighting, is classed as controversial, to knowingly penetrate an unsuspecting bull in the hope of achieving a celebrity status. Those who disagree on bullfighting, reduce any positives allowing themselves only to feed on the negatives, because it is natural to say "No" to a premeditated death. As a human being we react differently to our neighbours. However, most common feelings develop from culture. We like to establish ourselves as individually unique but at some point we are going to represent the same feelings, compassion, love, hate and so forth. Once we are aware that others enjoy the same we become friendly and encourage one another in the same direction, a celebration if you like!

Where bullfighting is concerned you are either FOR or AGAINST and both parties will argue their case.

I approached this controversial subject with an optimistic mind. It would be unfair to ridicule something with limited knowledge. I studied the likes of:

Ernest Hemingway, Death in the afternoon; The sun also rises

Juan Belmonte

Jose Gomez (Joselito)

Alexander Fiske Harrison, The author of “Into the arena” a British Journalist that has a huge passion for bulls. He has taken part in corrida de toros (the running of bulls) and gained the experience of a novillero- A bullfighter restricted by professional rules to engaging bulls less than four years of age.

 

So, firstly, I read about the fighting bulls. Iberian bulls are a selective breed and revered purely for their stamina, aggression and strength. After a year relying on their mother, regardless of the sex, the bulls are then sectioned and branded into single-sex groups. They stay here until the age of two. Once they are two years old, it is time to evaluate their worth, whether it is for breeding, fighting, or slaughtered for their meat. The test involves seeing how a bull reacts to a horse and analyse its aggressiveness and any sort of strategy. A bull cannot see a man in the ring until it is time to fight. Spanish Law states that the bulls have to be over four years old, with functional vision and horns that haven't being tampered with. (Even though it is illegal, they have been times were bulls horns have being shaven, this disturbs co-ordination, behavior, and become less dangerous to the matador, not a fair fight).  

If it is a form of art, emphasising danger and elegance together, then it is only natural to mention Juan Belmonte, a small Andalusian Matador, first. As he entered the ring, up to 50,000 applauded him, not knowing within the next few minutes he would revolutionise bullfighting. Instead of the common sword thrust he began to create beauty, elegance, almost an erotic scene in which colours _bright_ interacted with one another. Belmonte was born with weak and deformed legs, which at the time seemed inappropriate for this sort of performance. Because of his weak legs he found it hard rapidly moving around and instead of dancing around the bull, nervously, he remained still and erect, almost emotionless. The audience called him ugly, and if it wasn't for his new technique, his popularity would be questionable. When in the ring, the bull, reacting to the motivated muleta ran towards it in connection to the planned chapter, not only the audience cheered and became delighted, but also felt a touch of fear, fear for the matador himself as the bull’s horns brushed passed each time narrowly missing him. Belmonte, as a child, was always fascinated with bulls and dared to jump the wall and distract the bulls’ attention; it did not make him afraid but more alive. His father wanted him to work in his shop but due to his shyness Belmonte was not good at haggling and didn’t bring in as much money as his father needed. He knew from a young age he wanted to work with bulls.

From the day Belmonte's technique was heard of, inspiring matadors tried to replicate his moves, be rewarded and to be as famous. This resulted in many unpredictable deaths when the bull got too close, goring unsteady matadors. It was no secret that Juan Belmonte had a rival in Jose Gomez known commonly as Joselito. It was known as the golden era; two great compassionate matadors taking it in turns to deliver a great performance. Although they rivalled, they were close friends and always applauded their end results.

 

Ignacio Sanchez Mejias, the brother-in-law of Joselito, was born into a rich family. His father _a doctor_ wanted Sanchez to follow in his footsteps. Sanchez had other ideas. He became a huge fan of bulls at a young age. Becoming engrossed, Sanchez played truant to join children, including Jose Gomez, at a bullfighting school. As years passed, Sanchez became interested in women and poetry, and made his debut as a banderillero. In 1914 he was gored in his femur. Luckily, being a young age and in good health it wasn’t so severe to destroy his career. Although he was absent some time, he became a matador and a great one at that too. Sanchez was also a passionate poet. Sadly, one Sunday afternoon in 1920, Belmonte and Sanchez witnessed the goring of Joselito. Joselito was rushed to hospital. Sanchez stayed behind to kill the bull. Once the bull was killed, Sanchez raced to the hospital. He arrived too late. Joselito had died. Sanchez stayed behind and watched over the corpse in tears. There is a photograph witnessing Sanchez supporting the head of Joselito, caressing his face with the other hand. The most emotional scene, if ever there was one in bullfighting. Sanchez carried on bullfighting but was gored a numerous of times. He chose to address other opportunities in life such as his poetry and becoming an actor. In 1934 he returned to bullfighting. This would be his last time. He too was gored to death. His grave stone placed to the right of Joselito.

 

The Laid out Body

Stone is a forehead where dreams grief
without curving waters and frozen cypresses.
Stone is a shoulder on which to bear Time
with trees formed of tears and ribbons and planets.

I have seen grey showers move towards the waves
raising their tender riddle arms,
to avoid being caught by lying stone
which loosens their limbs without soaking their blood.

For stone gathers seed and clouds,
skeleton larks and wolves of penumbra:
but yields not sounds nor crystals nor fire,
only bull rings and bull rings and more bull rings without walls.

Now, Ignacio, the well born, lies on the stone.
All is finished. What is happening! Contemplate his face:
death has covered him with pale sulphur
and has placed on him, the head of dark Minotaur.

All is finished. The rain penetrates his mouth.
The air, as if mad, leaves his sunken chest,
and Love, soaked through with tears of snow,
warms itself on the peak of the herd.

What are they saying? A stanching silence settles down.
We are here with a body laid out which fades away,
with a pure shape which had nightingales
and we see it being filled with depthless holes.

Who creases the shroud? What he says is not true!
Nobody sings here, nobody weeps in the corner;
nobody pricks the spurs, nor terrifies the serpent.
Here I want nothing else but the round eyes
to see his body without a chance of rest.

Here I want to see those men of hard voice.
Those that break horses, and dominate rivers
those men of sonorous skeleton who sing
with a mouth full of sun and flint.

Here I want to see them, before the stone.
Before this body with broken reins
I want to know from them the way out
for this captain stripped down by death.

I want them to show me a lament like a river
which will have sweet mists and deep shores,
to take the body of Ignacio where it loses itself
without hearing the double planting of the bulls.

Loses itself in the round bull ring of the moon
which feigns in its youth, a sad quiet bull,
loses itself in the night without song of fishes
and in the white thicket of frozen smoke.

I don't want to cover his face with handkerchiefs
that he may get used to the death he carries.
Go, Ignacio, feel not the hot bellowing
Sleep, fly, and rest: even the sea dies!

-Lament poem, dedicated to Ignacio Sanchez Mejias

 

Belmonte carried on Bullfighting. Once, in his native, Seville, performing before a demanding crowd he got two warnings. Due to distractions with a married woman and poor diet, Belmonte was exhausted and he screamed at the bull to just kill him. Belmonte was removed from the ring, ending in his first retirement. On many occasions, Belmonte retired from the ring for being gored numerous of times and ill-health. In 1961 his health deteriorated quickly and him being unable to adjust, took a gun and shot himself in the head.

If I subtract the bull and just watch the elegant cape passes and the way Belmonte stood, I see art. I fall completely in love with the talent; slow, well thought-out and practiced, a display of dance, performing maturely and passionately. I found myself becoming more and more engaged; something before research I would not have imagined I should admit.

 I have watched numerous of bullfights and each one is different, not comparable. Some I am amazed how well the Matador performs, the way he moves, coordinated and brave; and sometimes I have watched, a silent tear trickling down my face, a sense of remorse and my conscious kicking in!

 Thousands of voices over-lap one another like an eerie sensation. Seating is priced based on sun and shade, shade being more expensive. It begins with a parade known as Paseillo in which the participants of the act enter the arena to salute the presiding dignitary. I watch on, immersed.

 

Preliminary phase

The Matador, in a series of passes, analyses the bull’s ferocity, speed and, if, or how it charges.

Act one:

Tercio de Varas (“Third of lances”)

Next, two picadors enter the arena mounted on padded and blindfolded horses.  When in sight, the bull attacks the horse, giving an inkling to which side the bull prefers. The picadors’ purpose is to lance the bull just behind the morillo, a mound of muscle on the bull’s neck. The bull can be lanced up to 4 times. Thriving on adrenaline, the bull sees the horses as the culprit and expectedly tries to gorge the victim. If the picadors are successful with their lancing, the bull’s head will lower. This is compulsory to the following stages of the bullfight, making the bulls charge less dangerously, enabling the Matador to perform.

Act two:

Tercio de banderillas (“Third of flags”)

The second act is the “Tercio de banderillas.” A banderilla is known as a “flag.” It is a long wooden stick, roughly two feet long with a barb at the end. The stick is decorated in yellow and red paper, signifying Spain. The banderilleros steps in once the Picador leaves. A banderillero will place himself in danger by getting his chest to pass close to or even between the horns. The crowd will be analysing every move as the banderilla punctures the bull’s shoulders. This puts a strain on the enormous ridges of the neck and shoulder muscle through loss of blood. The Banderilleros induce the bull to make ferocious charges. The bull becomes exhausted. Then it is time for the Matador to take over.

Act three:

Tercio de Muerte (“Third of death”)

The Matador, dressed in traje de luces, suit of lights, enters the ring armed with a muleta (the muleta, a red cape, is used to distract the bull. The colour red is for traditional purposes only; the bulls are actually colour-blind and only react to movement. The use of a red cape is to camouflage the blood) and, a sword in the other hand, the Matador, having dedicated the bull to a selected individual, or, the whole audience, stands, attracting the bull’s attention. (This is where I recognised the art that is labeled towards a corrida de toro.) The audience, happy with the Matadors performance, chant the words “Ole.” The Matador artistically performs a series of tanda, a series of passes. The Matador, keeping the bull motivated attempts to get the bull in a steady position in which he can kill the bull with an estocada, the thrusting of the sword between the bull’s shoulder blade and through the heart. This can sometimes go horribly wrong in which the Matador fails. This can cause the audience to protest and change the atmosphere.

Before the estocada, if the audience thinks the Matador has performed extremely well, they will, in response, wave a white handkerchief. If the president accepts, the Matador will be rewarded with the bulls’ ear or two, and in some cases the tail. However, on rare occasions a bull will be pardoned. Due to its performance the audience, waving white handkerchiefs, will petition its release. If the president agrees, the bull will live. It is a great honour to the Matador to have the bull pardoned.

In his book; Death in the afternoon, Ernest Hemingway wrote:

“Bullfighting is the only art that the artist is in danger.”

I think he pretty much summed it up in such a short sentence; something he was known to create well.

In order for the performance to come across as artistically approved, both Matador and bull have to come out and produce an intense degree of emotion. The Matador and the bull have to perform as an act, a story. The Matador, like a dancer, adopts a theoretical accomplishment. His body, like a model, has a perfect posture. His hands, coordinating the muleta, are inspiring to aficionados and such alike. The bull(s) signify passion, energy and freedom. I believe, if you look at it closely, analyse it deeper, it becomes an erotic scene, seduction, tense manoeuvring, a taste of penetration.

On my journey, I read information on those whom agreed and, disagreed. I did not agree or detested their message. I just accepted them. I did not and would not judge their likes or dislikes. My intention was to understand it, learn from it and write from, and about it.

When I watched the first bullfight I looked for any signs of foul play such as reported abuse on the bulls. I did not see any and that isn’t to say there were not. Once the lock was open and the bull came running out, it was how people said in the past and continuing to say: it runs out; seeing the light he thinks it is freedom and in some way it is freedom from his pen that he has being in for up to two nights. All cattle whether bred for food or to fight, like to be in a herd. So this bull runs out into the ring, looking lost and alone-this is only my first perception, which I am entitled to, same as anyone else. When the picadors come into the ring and once the bull sees the horses, he runs towards them. He sees the horse as the predator. Once the bull is within reach the picador lances it. The bull tries to gore the horses; horses are now protected with like a mattress-layer, to stop them from being gored as much. Once the picadors have done what they need to do, Banderilleros step in and, in time, place banderillas into the bull’s neck. The bull, from then on will lower his head. This is vital in order to be less of a threat to the Matador. When the Matador comes onto the scene dressed in traje de luces, usually in gold, this is when I think art becomes part of the scene. The colours and manner of the Matador reminds me of a Flamenco dancer, sturdy, balanced and in the high spirit. When The bull sees the muleta’s move, he runs towards it. I find this interesting to watch, each time waiting in suspense of the Matadors safety. After the Matador has finished with the bull, the ear(s) or tail maybe cut off as a reward to the Matador. This was the part I felt a little uneasy with. You could clearly see the bull was still conscious. Then, it is tied up and dragged along the golden sand. The audience cheering as the bull’s life is departing from him.

I first looked into those who agree on Bullfighting as an art and the reasons behind their opinions:

The majority of those who agree on Bullfighting only agree because of “Spanish Tradition,” rather than giving me a fuller reason, which would have being more preferable to examine.

I came across British Journalist Alexander Fiske-Harrison whom I knew from reading only a few lines how much passion he feels for it. His blogs were very interesting to read and keeps the reader very entertained through-out. Alexander Fiske-Harrison has taken part in the Pamplona Bull run and only recently was almost gored.

“With my back against the wall, its horns either side of my chest – literally – and, unlike in Pamplona or an official plaza de toros, no surgeon within a forty-five minute drive, I saw my own death ahead of me. However, for some reason the bull decided today was not my day and moved on, most likely because I had the presence of mind to freeze, making myself invisible to the clockwork brain behind the horns.”

-Alexander Fiske-Harrison

Before I came across his blog it was, at first, hard to think of myself ever seeing the FOR side of the bullfighting. I was, admittedly, naïve towards it. My knowledge and perception was limited. Alexander Fiske-Harrison changed my way of thinking. He believes a fighting bull is a better, respected animal, than any cattle sent to the slaughter-house. A fighting bull, as mentioned above, lives up to five plus years. Cattle, bred purely for food, live to about two years. Within the two years of life, they are sheltered in a small pen, with limited movement and, poor quality of food. And, although scientifically killed humanely than a fighting bull, their life is not as well lived than a fighting bull. A fighting bull lives on acres of pasture with better quality food and top priority care. The bull, at the end of the scene, will either die in honor or be sparred his life in honor. Matadors and aficionados think a lot about the bulls. Changing bullfighting, to not killing the bull, would be like “Romeo and Juliet, where Romeo doesn’t die.” It wouldn’t be the same. Now, understanding it more in depth I can appreciate it. It does not mean I fully accept it, because I don’t. I appreciate the skill, the performance, the bravery of the Matadors, the way the bull maneuvers in response to a script.

I do not like the way something is accepted on “traditional aspects.” There are many traditions in many different countries. It does not mean they are right. Only recently Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) has being looked into in the UK. Now, as an understanding nation we disagree on this “tradition” both male and female. Even if we looked into it, like I have on bullfighting, we would not change our mind and that is guaranteed. It is a “tradition” that ought to be banned, right now. Hence why saying Spanish Bullfighting is a “tradition” and that is why it should not be banned, to me it’s not a good enough excuse.

And, obviously there are those that are AGAINST bullfighting. There are higher percentages as AGAINST than there are FOR it.

There are many who agree Bullfighting should be banned as they call it “Barbaric, revolting, torturous.” I have read paragraph after paragraph about how a bull is treated before, during and, after the bullfight. There are a large number of people, who believe bulls are kept in a box, starved and dehydrated two days before they are due to enter the ring; and, that their eyes have Vaseline rubbed into them, wet newspaper stuffed in their ears, acid on their feet to keep them on their feet; active, steroids to induce strength, irritation-to make them seem more aggressive. My view on this would be the bulls’ need to have 100% vision in order to see the movement of the muleta? Wet newspaper, acid, and, steroids I do not know, admittedly, if this is taking place, I cannot comment on that without facts.

Bullfighting has and will continue to cause a great amount of controversy to those, who label it barbaric and dedicate a vast amount of their time in protesting to the Spanish Embassy.
Back in 1991 Canary Islands were the first region in Spain to ban bullfighting and, after animal right lobbyists displayed their anger and concern for the bulls’ welfare, they gained a staggering 180,000 petitions to eradicate the existence of bullfighting in Catalonia, Barcelona in January 2012. It is no secret that Catalonia has openly admitted their fight for independence and to be separated from Spain in the past and continue to do so. That being said, this was no political move, as many interpreted it. Catalonia was no longer prepared to condone public spectacles, transmitting the message violence can be sometimes tolerated.

As a Writer and, a passionate artist, I crave cultural variations. I linger on a subject matter and feed off the information. I become knowledgeable and it gives me great satisfaction and, like an addiction, I yearn for more. I look at every angle and, whether the subject matter is to my taste or not. For me to write this, I closed off my feelings. I did not want to automatically jump to one side and dismiss any information on the opposite. I have enjoyed reading upon Bullfighting, the Matadors, and seeing as an artist, the scenes.

 

My overall review

 So which, if any, is more humane, more acceptable?

We are all guilty, except vegetarians, ignoring how cattle, bred for food, die. The only thing we contemplate; how it will look on a plate. We turn a blind eye to how the animal, responsible for our meal, suffered before being skinned and cooked.

 

Is bullfighting only bad because we witness the death?

 

I wanted to write this open-minded. I wanted to create some form of open discussion so please, if you have respected my blog, leave your opinion.